Daily Bulletin

Men's Weekly

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  • Written by Jye Marshall, Lecturer, Fashion Design, School of Design and Architecture, Swinburne University of Technology

Men have started sewing up a storm, driving a culture shift that challenges the traditional notion of sewing as a “women’s hobby”.

The COVID pandemic drove a resurgence in home economics, with many people – including many men – picking up skills such as sewing and knitting.

This trend has since grown, even as lockdowns have ended. And it disrupts the dominant narrative that men stick to stereotypical masculine identities – particularly in rural Australia, where social pressure to behave a certain way can feel amplified.

The rise of mens’ sewing

The term “performative male” has been used to describe a sub-group of men who try really hard to appear “non-masculine” – usually for the purpose of attracting women. Is picking up the sewing just another performative male trick?

The research suggests not. Instead, it reveals a subculture of men who are genuine fashion enthusiasts taking up the skill.

Globally, men’s sewing groups have also been established as a way to foster community and improve mental health.

Gen Z’s members in particular are not shying away from personalising their style – and finding ways to customise their wardrobes on a budget.

These young men are not as strongly influenced by trends flowing down from runways. Instead, they leverage social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram to share their passion and influence others, bringing more young men into the fold.

The rise of men mending and sewing clothes has also been linked to broader societal awareness of sustainability and overconsumption issues.

Tailoring influences

While sewing has long been (and arguably still is) viewed as a typically feminine pursuit, there is some historic precedent for the rise of sewing among men today.

Throughout history, tailoring and suit-making have been seen as acceptable professions for men – and still are in many cultures such as in Pakistan, South Korea, Italy and Hong King.

In London, Savile Row and its famous menswear tailoring businesses have been operating for almost 200 years. These establishments have dressed many royals and celebrities. Savile Row was also the starting place for many famous designers such as Alexander McQueen.

In Australia, Rip Curl founders Doug Warbrick and Brian Singer were both driven to clothing production as a result of surf culture.

Australian designers such as Christopher Esber, Martin Grant and Toni Maticevski have all been influenced by complex tailoring practices which have supported their broader fashion practice.

Women shaping fashion

So how did making clothes end up being labelled as women’s work? Well, Australia does have a long history of women in fashion. Even today, the fashion sector is made up of 77% women.

From the 1800s, and becoming widespread in the 1920s, we saw the rise of a bundling manufacturing system in which prominent brands would send bundles of garment pieces to home sewers to sew and return. The sewers were often paid per bundle, or per garment.

Then in the 1940s and 1950s, the second world war created economic conditions (including clothing rations) that led to most Australian women learning dressmaking skills, with many sewing their own clothes.

Not just a ‘woman’s hobby’ – why more men are picking up sewing, and why you should too
Female textile employees sewing garments on industrial sewing machines in the 1950s. Museums Victoria, CC BY

As women were tasked with filling labour shortages left by the war, sewing was considered “simple” work women could easily undertake. Of course, anyone who does it themselves will know this isn’t quite true. Sewing has always required a complex set of skills, and has historically been undervalued.

Local manufacturing and home sewing by women declined between the 1970s and 1990s due to the removal of government tariffs, and the industry’s inability to compete with the low-cost fast fashion market.

How to start

If you’re looking to pick up sewing as a hobby this summer, don’t worry about finding a fancy machine with lots of features.

All you need is a machine that sews straight lines; you might even find one collecting dust in a cupboard. Start simple with some basic up-cycling, before jumping onto your first garment from scratch.

Depending on where you live, you might have access to in-person beginner sewing lessons. But if you don’t, don’t worry – surveys suggest some 48% of Gen Z members have taught themselves a new skill through TiKTok, and 42% through YouTube. So that could be your first point of call.

@CorneliusQuiring, @glory.allan and @zoehongteaches are just a few of many TikTok accounts to help get you started.

Who knows? You could be the next Christian Dior or Cristóbal Balenciaga. It’s just a matter of practice, and finding joy within the challenge.

Authors: Jye Marshall, Lecturer, Fashion Design, School of Design and Architecture, Swinburne University of Technology

Read more https://theconversation.com/not-just-a-womans-hobby-why-more-men-are-picking-up-sewing-and-why-you-should-too-271191

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