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  • Written by Alexandra Sherlock, Lecturer, School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University

Like most public figures, Kamala Harris adapts her footwear to different occasions. While her wardrobe includes traditional choices such as formal black heels, it was her appearance in Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars on the February 2021 cover of Vogue that drew particular notice.

As Democratic nominee for president, these sneakers once again became a focal point of her campaign.

Through her choice of sneakers, Harris signals a new era in female political leadership – and demonstrates how footwear choices can shape a leader’s identity and ability to connect with voters.

Embracing all-American values

We may know we shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, but all politicians – especially women – know that we inevitably do. The appearance of others is how we categorise people to make sense of the world and our place in it.

Clothing is a key medium through which we identify ourselves and others. Shoes are particularly layered with meaning: when we observe someone’s footwear we are using them to know whether or not we identify with that person.

This is something that politicians and their teams know and manipulate to win votes.

One famous scene that illustrates this beautifully is Brooklyn Democratic congressman David Norris’s concession speech in the movie The Adjustment Bureau (2011).

Played by Matt Damon, the character reveals the significant work that goes into curating the perfect outfit:

Shiny shoes, we associate with high-priced lawyers and bankers. If you want to get a working man’s vote, you need to scuff up your shoes a little bit, but you can’t scuff them up so much that you alienate the lawyers and the bankers […] So what is the proper scuffing amount? Do you know, we actually paid a consultant $7,300 to tell us that THIS is the perfect amount of scuffing?

While Harris’ Chuck Taylors generally look pristine, she is transparent about her awareness of the style’s significance to potential voters, explaining in a 2020 interview:

Whatever your background or whatever language your grandmother spoke, we all at some point or another had our Chucks, right?

An all-American shoe worn by people of all ages, races, genders and sexualities, the relatively inexpensive and utilitarian Converse All-Star is a social leveller – a smart choice for a politician wishing to identify with a broad electorate.

As others have identified, Harris’ choice of sneakers signals her American values and no-nonsense attitude.

In these shoes, she’s ready for anything.

Shoes change us

Interviewed in 2018, Harris’ relationship with the sneakers goes back several years and certainly appears authentic.

Whether the initial choice to wear them was hers – or, like Norris, that of a team of consultants – is now irrelevant. Through the process of wear, shoes change us.

Not only do they affect how we move through the world physically, but they also shape how we relate to others socially.

White sneakers with '2020' in blue.
Then vice presidential candidate Harris wore her Chucks at a drive-in early voting event in October 2020. AP Photo/Wilfredo Lee

Anyone who has selected a particular pair of shoes for an interview or special occasion will be familiar with their transformative effect, one that helps you to feel the part.

Identity can be understood as something that is performed. When a performance is received as convincing, we become the part we are playing and the identity is incorporated into our sense of self.

Harris’ shoes are relatable. In them, she is perceived as – and may therefore feel – approachable and down-to-earth.

On the campaign trail, the social interactions they afford increase her ability to relate to and connect with other people. Through this process, her performance and her identity become one.

One might say she has become her shoes; in doing so, she has come to embody the all-American values they represent. And at only 5 feet 4 ¼ inches, the choice not to compensate for her height with heels exudes a self-assurance more women are discovering.

This woman knows who she is and is reassuringly at ease with herself.

Finding authenticity

Aside from ongoing speculation about Trump’s height and whether he wears elevating insoles, his choice of footwear has attracted comparatively less attention, as is often the case for male politicians.

Trump holds gold Trump sneakers at Sneaker Con Philadelphia, February 2024. AP Photo/Manuel Balce Ceneta

According to Footwear News, he rarely diverts from black leather dress shoes, signifying his corporate associations. This didn’t stop Trump launching a line of gold sneakers, named “Never Surrender High-Tops” and priced at US$399 in February. A new design, with the words “Fight, fight, fight”, was released after the July assassination attempt.

This represents quite a different use of shoes to connect with voters.

In an era when authenticity in politics is increasingly valued, Harris’ footwear choice represents more than a campaign strategy. It reflects changing expectations around power and leadership.

Her Converse sneakers challenge the notion that women must literally elevate themselves to command authority.

Instead, they suggest a new kind of political performance where power comes not from height or traditional status symbols, but from the ability to connect genuinely with voters.

Authors: Alexandra Sherlock, Lecturer, School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University

Read more https://theconversation.com/what-kamala-harris-converse-all-stars-tell-us-about-how-shoes-shape-our-identity-242777

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