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Tue Jan 7

The story of a wave: from wind-blown ripples to breaking on the beach

Written by Shane Keating, Senior Lecturer in Mathematics and Oceanography, UNSW

By the time a wave reaches shore, it may have travelled tens of thousands of kilometres.Ian Mitchinson / Shutterstock

It’s a cliché, but Aussies love the beach. And little wonder: with 36,000 kilometres of coastline, Australia is blessed with some of the best beaches in the world.

Around 20 million Australians live within 50 kilometres...

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