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‘A country to be heard and danced’: journeying into Australia’s menacing interior spaces

  • Written by: Tim Rowse, Emeritus Professor, Institute for Culture and Society, Western Sydney University
Cover of Yilkari

In the four parts that make up Yilkari – “Valentin”, “Dylan”, “Captain” and “Master” – men spend a lot of time engaging in venturesome outback driving and superbly eloquent talking.

Review: Yilkari: a desert suite – Nicolas Rothwell and Alison Nampitjinpa Anderson (Text Publishing)

In three of the four stories (each centred on the character whose name it bears), their journeys are along roads first carved into the dirt of the homelands of western desert Aboriginal people in the 1950s, when Commonwealth surveyor Len Beadell sought to make the region more serviceable as a Cold War weapons-testing range.

Yilkari honours Beadell while questioning our colonising expectation of mastering Australia’s vast dry interior. Not only distance emerges as a formidable tyrant. Yilkari’s central idea is that Australia’s interior spaces are – spiritually – both impenetrable and menacing.

While civilisation’s insecure purchase on Australia’s deserts enables “freedom” to the “drifter” – two important words in this book – these sparsely populated spaces embody the ineffable, powerful and unforgiving spirits of all who have dwelt there over thousands of years.

To experience their presence, Yilkari’s characters find, is to receive intimations of one’s own death. To know and accept the desert’s grim majesty is the basis of a cosmology that, in these four tales, belongs only to Aboriginal people and to misfits who have cleaved to them.

Yikari begins with a note to readers explaining it was written in tandem “by people who had become each other’s authors”: writer Nicolas Rothwell and his wife, artist Alison Nampitjinpa Anderson, a Luritja-Pintupi woman.

This book will divide readers. To enjoy it, I had to suspend my belief that humans do not converse with the philosophical ease, wit and dialogical generosity of the narrator and his companions.

As an historian of Central Australia’s colonisation and some time investigator of some of its human problems, I was aware of myself conceding to the authors their preoccupation with questions more transcendental. Is one human life little or big? Meaningfully structured or random? Is truth a place?

These are not my questions, but they may be some readers’. The narrator’s inexhaustibly eloquent negative capability may exert, for such readers, the anti-heroic appeal of the Romantic poets.

Hearing through the silence

Each story is narrated by an “I”, and the narrator’s interlocutors do not address him by name. That the narrator is, in all four stories, the same person is confirmed in the book’s final pages when – for only the second time – a woman speaks.

This time it’s an Aboriginal woman – Narulya, the narrator’s partner. Their conversation – planning a long drive through the western desert – refers to his friendships and travels that have comprised the four stories in Yilkari.

She observes that his stories are “always from somewhere else”, and he agrees, adding “they’re much too true to life, they can’t catch the mind or touch the heart”, unlike the stories she knows and that he cannot know. She consoles him.

But if you listen, out in the desert, I mean really listen, listen hard, sometimes you can almost hear the country singing them. Hear through the silence. And we might hear that music, where we’re going, where the old desert travellers were, those nomads.

Hearing is the most important action performed by Yilkari’s characters. As linguists Nick Evans and David Wilkins pointed out in their 2000 paper In the Mind’s Ear, when Aboriginal languages use a sensory metaphor to refer to our capacity for understanding, they mostly use verbs referring to listening and hearing, not – as in English – verbs referring to “seeing”. (“I see what you mean”.)

Cover of Yilkari
Yilkari abounds in references to hearing as a modality of experience that must not be marginalised by our habit of seeking to understand by looking. The book’s first part is largely a conversation between “Jan Valentin”, a Moravian musician and composer of international fame. He and the narrator first met in Berlin, on the night the Wall ceased to separate East from West. He is now in Australia, searching for the narrator and finding him at home, at a place known in this book as “Frontier Well”. As they drive, Valentin recalls his life since 1989. A storm in Siberia nearly killed him, but it also spoke. He heard a voice saying “You are ours. You belong to us, and we give ourselves to you.” As the storm abated, he kept the voice deep inside myself. It was the gift that changed everything. The golden key. From that day on I could compose freely […] I’d tuned myself into that landscape. Valentin then tells how he was contracted, after 1989, to an agent who insisted he stick to a successful formula of improvised music, so that “I made myself into a shadow of what I’d been.” The narrator suggests to Valentin that in the western desert he might regain freedom to be his true self. Driving to Karilywara (a Ngaanyatjarra outstation) the pair encounter Nina, the German nurse who serves that community. She had heard Valentin play in Berlin the night the Wall ended and was inspired, she tells him, “to live my life as freely as I could […] And look at where my star’s brought me!” At Karilywara they visit Mr Giles – a maparn (healer/sorcerer) and “aristocrat”. To the narrator’s surprise, Valentin and Mr Giles make music together. The three see dancing figures, painted up and spectral. The story ends with Valentin’s expression of wonder: “What comes now? What could come now?” Beyond seeing In “Dylan” the narrator drives with two old friends – Galvin and Tjampitjinpa. Galvin explains to Tjampitjinpa that the narrator is always looking for what’s behind the landscape. What’s hidden there. Its secret rhythms. The patterns that it holds, its music, that thread of sound almost too faint to hear. That’s what he’s after. He wants to capture it. Find words for it. Decode it, even. As if you could. The narrator deflects this but does not demur. Soon they arrive at a “site” that Dylan – a man of Aboriginal tradition – has dared them to experience. They feel terror, and Galvin speculates that this is what Dylan intended: a warning to the narrator. “So you could see that the desert’s depths aren’t meant for you.” While Narulya is remembered and quoted in “Dylan”, she is not physically present with the narrator. He tells Dylan what Narulya has told him – that although “the country’s like a book”, it is not to be read but heard and danced. Narulya carries it inside her, to “recite over in my mind each day”. The narrator’s connection with Narulya allows him two positions in these stories. He is still learning from adepts such as she and Mr Giles, but he has spent enough time with them to know how to mediate, to newcomers, some of the mystery of their country. When teased by a yarning friend that he is “a real back-roads operator”, he replies: “Aren’t back roads where the truth hides?” As a novitiate of Country, the narrator is able to intervene in an explanation of the word yilkari. To the curious newcomer (Valentin) the Aboriginal man (Mr. Giles) begins an explanation of that term by pointing to the sky – that is, as something we can see. The narrator (who has known Mr Giles for a long time) immediately intervenes, glossing yilkari as sky; Heaven; clarity; everlastingness and distance – and that’s just the beginning. Probably other, higher things as well. That is, what we see is a mere clue to something beyond seeing. All four stories point to hearing as the modality that might get us closer to understanding “life’s course and shape.” Using our ears In “Captain”, the narrator is driving in Queensland’s Gulf country. He picks up a stranger named Captain who tells his life story, including a conversation with a mentor who, while acknowledging Captain’s skill in stock work, warned him that he has “only just begin to learn”. Working cattle’s not a skill, it’s an art, like playing an instrument, improvising. You’re like a pianist in a concert hall. Or a conductor with an orchestra. You might have a score to follow, but you need to be always watching, shifting, changing everything in mid-flow. The cattle are the notes of music. You have to give them perfect shape. When you can do that, I’ll say you’re ready, and I’ll send you out. A reader who finds the metaphor a bit forced can still register the importance to the authors of insisting that, to understand, we use our ears. The Gulf country is special to the narrator because his father took him there as a child of eight or nine, visiting abandoned goldfields where the narrator’s grandfather had tried his luck. The point of having children, his father says, is “to keep your memory”. As an adult, the narrator goes back to these places with his friend Mikey. Mikey’s vehicle has a soundtrack: he plays ambient music “because it never gives you the sense of a beginning or an end.” It circles round and round, the music comes back on itself, as if it’s holding out a promise of eternity, a promise that disappears the moment the repetitions stop. Mikey’s tape soon yields other sounds: Madame Mao’s voice, a 60s music clip from California, Timothy Leary talking about LSD. To the narrator this is appropriately “acausal”, like their journey, but Mikey prefers “diagonal”. “There’s a kind of argument involved”, he gnomically assures the narrator. At the end of his journey with Mikey, the narrator says of the bush: “It’s our master. It reads our dreams. It hears our thoughts.” An epiphany “Master” is the title of the final journey in the suite. The narrator is with Johnson, an art photographer who gets his subjects by “drifting about” the Pilbara’s mines and loading terminals. They drive east to Lake Disappointment (Kumpupintil) because Johnson has read H.P. Lovecraft’s The Shadow Out Of Time.
Mineral Resources’ Onslow Iron mine in the West Pilbara. Supplied/AAP

Lake Disappointment’s map coordinates are those given by Lovecraft (22 degrees 3’ 14" South Latitude, 125 degrees 0’ 39" East Longitude) for the stronghold of that novel’s “alien race who switch bodies with their human victims and travel back and forth.”

Arriving at Kumpupintil, the narrator and Johnson join camp with three veterans of World War II who explain their twofold goal: to honour Len Beadell by using his roads and to get to Corunna Downs Airfield, the secret base of bombing raids on the Dutch East Indies by B24 bombers. (It is now a ruin, and Johnson had once photographed it.)

Flying back from a mission, the veterans recall, the crew had seen mysterious shapes and patterns in the sky and, mindful of “the flames of Surabaya” (the result of their bombing raid), they had longed for their own destruction, to “be freed from what we knew, be washed clean and pure.” Now, nearing the end of their lives, visiting the remains of Corunna Downs would “draw out the great circle of our lives. Complete the arc.”

Yilkari has the feeling of an end-of-life reflection. In its closing pages, the narrator is with Narulya at a desert place where singing can be faintly heard, though the singers cannot be seen. Narulya warns him to be quiet and not approach the voices. This is the narrator’s epiphany.

In empty desert, far from everything you know, in darkness, in boundlessness – it comes. And a conviction formed in me, though my mind immediately rejected it, yet it lingered: the notion that there is a structure to our time on Earth, a trajectory, and beyond the horizon of our being all one day will be shown.

As Narulya explains, when they are safely distant, what he has just heard are “the songs and ceremonies that last forever – the sweet pure voices of the dead”.

Authors: Tim Rowse, Emeritus Professor, Institute for Culture and Society, Western Sydney University

Read more https://theconversation.com/a-country-to-be-heard-and-danced-journeying-into-australias-menacing-interior-spaces-262499

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